A Study of Historical Transformation and Cultural Change in Chinese Dian-cui Jewellery

Abstract

Dian-cui (dotting with kingfisher feathers) refers to a traditional Chinese manufacturing technique for decorating jewellery and other precious handicrafts using the blue feathers of kingfishers. As an original contribution to knowledge, this thesis examines changing cultural perspectives on dian-cui jewellery based on key historical transformations in China. It begins by describing the history of this specialised branch of jewellery in late imperial China, then considers cultural changes in China, and internationally, thereby generating new insight into shifting attitudes towards the ethical and aesthetic dimensions of the use of kingfisher feathers for ornament and decoration. Chapter 1 presents an overview of the history and aesthetics of Dian-cui jewellery in China. Chapter 2 discusses dian-cui headdresses among female and male wearers in the Qing Dynasty. Chapter 3 draws on the concepts of nostalgia and authenticity in a critical analysis of contemporary dian-cui reproductions through a case study of Qing Palace Drama. Chapter 4 examines the cross-cultural debate on animal ethical issues and dian-cui jewellery. Chapter 5 discusses Dian-cui hybrid jewellery in contemporary China. Chapter 6 critically analyses Orientalism, Cartier kingfisher feather clocks, and the Art Deco Movement.